Wicklow's Coastal Border

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Wicklow's Coastal Border

Wednesday, August 7 2002

By Graham Caswell

County Wicklow is known for its mountains, the biggest continuous expanse of uplands in Ireland. It's called the Garden County after the gentle valleys and woodlands of the lowlands. But there's another part of the county that isn't emphasised nearly as much - the 50 miles of varied and beautiful coastline that form Wicklow's eastern border.

Wicklow's border with the sea starts at Kilmicheal Point on the border of Wexford, overlooked by the old Coastguard building which is now rehabilitated as apartments. Although only three miles from Arklow, this can seem a bleak and isolated place, especially in the winter, but there's plenty there. There's a short beach, and the rocks, seaweed and abundant sea life make it an interesting place to snorkel and dive. There's also good fishing, especially for bass, and there are plenty of crab-filled rock pools waiting to be explored by children.

Wicklow's Coastal Border

A mile up the coast past another small beach and you'll find yourself on Clogga - a good swimming beach. The rocky headland to the south is accessible enough for a walk (and for fishing) while the northern part is overshadowed by dramatic cliffs.

Continuing north you'll come to the bleak rock barrier of the Roadstone quarry. The Jetty at Roadstone dominates the coast south of Arklow and shelters 'The Cove' - an artificial lagoon popular for swimming. Arklow used to have two beaches - one on each side of the Avoca river but, while the South Beach remains intact the north beach has been mostly washed away following construction of a rock barrier in the late '80's. Arklow also has a working harbour full of colourful fishing boats, although few are making a full time living from fishing these days. This is also the home port of Ireland's national tall ship the Asgard II. Across the river is Arklow port, which hosts ocean-going ships, including those from Arklow Shipping - Ireland's largest shipping company.

Continuing north past Porter's Rocks is the Seabank beach - a beautiful and rare beach with one of the few remaining undamaged dune systems on the East Coast. This beach is also known locally as 'The Virgin Beach' because it is so untouched. Although within walking distance from Arklow it seems as remote as distant Connemara.

After Seabank there begins a series of small beaches and coves that are one of Wicklow's greatest secrets. There are over a dozen such beaches, some close to the road and some only accessible by climbing over headlands. There are even a few very small coves only accessible from the sea. If you ever wanted to spend a summer's day on your very own beach this is the place.

Continuing north there's Ennireilly Beach - a long, steep beach several miles long that ends at Mizen Head where the European Golf Club has, unfortunately, destroyed some of the dunes. Mizen Head itself is a good place for diving and snorkeling, although there can be strong currents - especially when the tide is changing. Strong sea currents flow up the Irish Sea when the tide is incoming and down the sea when the tide is going out. Since Mizen Head protrudes into the Irish Sea the tidal currents can rush around it with some force.

On the other side of the head is the three-mile strand of Brittas Bay - the summer haunt of much of Dublin on a sunny day. It's a gentle, safe, and very beautiful beach and it’s easy to see why it’s so popular. Continuing on there are further coves and beaches but, although the beaches themselves are public property, access to them is too often private and restricted. One of these coves particularly worth visiting is Silver Strand - another gentle beach at the bottom of a steep slope complete with rocks and caves.

This area also has many rocky headlands ending at Wicklow head, overlooked by the foreboding gloom of the Black Castle (and by the friendlier lighthouse!). Wicklow Head is very dramatic - the tall cliffs home to birds and the seas below filled with seals and other sea life. The currents around this head are the strongest on the Irish Sea and the water rushing around the head can look like a river at times. Rounding the head we come to the port and harbour of Wicklow town. Many fishing boats from this harbour fish for Whelks (sea snails) which are abundant in local waters. Larger, ocean-going ships bring in timber and other imports.

The Coves North of Arklow

After Wicklow town the longest stretch of beach in Ireland - the Murrough- begins. Over ten miles long this strand stretches from Wicklow town to Greystones and shelters important wetlands that harbour a wide variety of bird life. Parallel to the beach is the railway track with a track running along side. With Wicklow Head on one side and Bray Head on the other the Murrough opens up the coast and allows the walker to look out to sea on one side and see the foothills of the Wicklow mountains on the other.

After the Murrough there is the town of Greystones with its small and hardly-used harbour and then, after a short beach, Bray Head begins. It’s possible to walk along the head from Greystones to Bray or vice versa and it is a spectacular walk. The path hugs the tallest cliffs on the East Coast and overlooks spectacular drops. It's not a walk for those suffering from vertigo, but its certainly dramatic.

Finally, coming down from Bray Head brings one to Bray and its Victorian seafront of bandstands and the Promenade. There are amusements and candyfloss and lots of B&Bs but the beach itself is a shadow of its former self having suffered erosion. At the end of the seafront is the small Bray harbour, the home of dozens of swans where the river Dargle enters the sea. Its just north of the Dargle where county Dublin begins and the long, varied and very beautiful Wicklow coastline comes to an end.

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